The last article dealt with gas fired fireplaces, this article on wood burning fireplaces, and the next article will deal with "air tight" wood burners.

Two main types of wood burning fireplaces are commonly found in homes I inspect. The types are a full masonry constructed unit and a factory built fireplace. Both types of fireplaces have many items of safety in common.

A properly built fireplace should provide for heat, ambience, and safety.

Some of the fireplaces installed 20 or more years ago were not designed to produce heat into the home, they were only planned for looks. It was not until the "heatolator" type of unit was introduced which was able to use a heat exchanger and help warm the adjacent area. Factory built units also had fans installed to produce useable heat from the burning of wood or fire logs.

All fireplaces should have a damper, which can be fully closed when not in use. A damper that does not close can be an area where heat from the home can be lost. Prior to starting any fire, make sure the damper is open. It is important that the flue also be checked on occasion because sometimes animals and birds may make a home in the flue. I also suggest a rain cap be installed and perhaps a screen on the top of your flue. It is also important that no trees are close to the chimney. Checking the mortar, caps and bricks on a masonry fireplace is also a good idea.

Some flues do not work properly. This may be due to the size of the chimney and the height of the unit. A chimney should be 2' higher when measured from a level point 10' from the roof. Occasionally most wood burning fireplaces require the services of a chimney sweep. I can say the more times you have a fire, the more often you should have your fireplace flue cleaned. A very basic rule of thumb relates to cleaning a flue after burning a minimum of two full cords of wood. A cord is 4' x 4' x 8'.

In some cases both types of fireplaces may be equipped with gas log lighters. The conveniences of such log lighters are for starting a fire as they burn the wood in the fire box and warm the flue to create a suitable draft. Without a log lighter it is important to build up kindling and newspaper to start the combustibles in the firebox to burn. Once the kindling has started to burn you can then add larger pieces of wood.

It is also important to use well seasoned or wood containing low moisture content for best results. Arsenic is used to preserve treated wood from premature rotting, so, never use any scrap in your fireplace.

A good set of fireplace tools are recommended. Most tool sets have either three or four pieces. I found the set of four tools to be the best.

Ideally, all types of fireplaces should be equipped with heat resistive glass doors and screens. The reason for screens is to stop sparks from flying out of the firebox and landing on any combustible surface. Having glass doors on your wood burner will totally eliminate such a situation. Never go to bed unless your fire has been totally extinguished.

For improved combustion, newer homes have a combustion air in-take for the furnace and hot water tank. This combustion air also assists in assisting your fireplace to work properly. If your home does not have combustion air available, then it may be necessary to open a door or window slightly.

-The opinions and ideas expressed are solely those of the author, and not necessarily those of the Calgary Real Estate News. Paul Tobolski is the owner of Ability Home Inspections and can be reached at 519-6038 or 286-HOME(4663). Paul has over thirty-five years of experience in the areas of design, construction, maintenance and inspection of homes. He has been a member of the CAHPI (Ab.) since 1993.